As a child, our second home was a beach house at 334 Palm Drive, Hermosa Beach, California. My three sisters and I spent all summer every year there in the sand and surf all day.
In 1949, there were not a lot of surfboards, mostly big plywood paddle boards. My first board, I found in a trash pile. It was a four foot pine ironing board. I glued a skeg on it. At 8 years old, this was my surf board. I painted a shark mouth on the nose. Every body told me, it was a belly board, but to me it was my “shark board!”
Watching and photographing the falcons at Morro Rock, at times, I would turn my attention to the surfers.
- photo by Heather O’Connor
- photo by Heather O’Connor
Being appreciative of the female form, my photography took me there. Besides they don’t get near the ink that the men do. So this is for you ladies… “Welcome to the world of Estero Bay Women on Water.”
Bob
Hey Bob I met you this morning 11/25 around 8:45 as I was exiting the water. Might be a long shot but I caught a few long set waves and would be stoked if there were there were pics. I’ve been surfing the pier for 28 years! Cheers, Chris
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Chris, I am normally on the north side of Morro Rock or Cayucos every morning. If you stop by and request, I will take pictures of you. Bob
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